Kawah Ratu - A Volcanic Day Out From Jakarta Or Bogor
South of Jakarta and just outside the city of Bogor lies the towering volcano of Mount Salak and the crater of Kawah Ratu. Read all about our experience, trekking up the volcano to its steaming sulphurous crater as well as bathing in hot springs and swimming in a secret waterfall. This day trip can be done from Jakarta or Bogor and is one not to be missed!
West Java is a laced with volcanoes, their steaming, bubbling or sleeping peaks punctuate the landscape and can be seen for miles and miles around. As you look up from the city haze in Bogor or (on a clear day) Jakarta, you can see the distant outline of these jungle clad giants. Volcanic peaks surround the cities and a trip to one makes for a great natural escape from the urban chaos.
The nearest major volcano to Jakarta is Mount Salak and sitting near its peak is the famous Kawah Ratu, the Queen's Crater. The landscape of the volcano and its surrounding jungle was worlds away from the concrete and noise of the city streets. We wanted to stretch our legs and see something unique, so the promise of Kawah Ratu’s lush green jungle, wildlife, waterfalls, bubbling mud-pits and steaming sulphur vents sounded like the perfect re-set from the urban exploring we had been up to.
We had only the vaguest notion of what to expect when we set out and the one day trek that followed utterly blew us away. Read on to find out all about Kawah Ratu, Mount Salak and a fantastic day out from Jakarta or Bogor.
Our Guide to the Kawah Ratu Trek:
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The Trek to Kawah Ratu - Our experience
We were staying at the Rion Bogor Hostel and after a couple of days exploring all that Bogor had to offer (there is a lot, make sure you have read our guide Bogor!) we were eager to get out into nature. Advertised on the front desk was a “volcano and jungle hike”. This seemed like exactly what we were looking for, a chance to stretch our legs, escape from the traffic and see our first Indonesian volcano up close. We booked immediately.
Organised through WhatsApp by the extremely helpful Ridwan (see the end of this article for booking help), a full itinerary had been prepared for us. On the morning of the trip, we were picked up from outside our hostel in Bogor (they offer the same tour if you’re staying in Jakarta) by our driver Jacky, and were driven out of town and up into the green slopes of Mount Salak.
The drive out of town was beautiful. As soon as we escaped the busy Bogor streets, we were in another world. Small villages, stepped rice paddies, farms and friendly waving children were everywhere. With the open skies and overwhelming greenery, it was a world away from the metropolitan Indonesia we had experienced so far.
Arriving at the trailhead, we were introduced to our guide Mr Dudi and set off up a stone path into the jungle. Just past the trailhead there is a little construction going on, but this is quickly left behind and the jungle completely envelopes you. Mr Dudi stopped to show us plants that the local villagers used to repel mosquitos, as well as plants that could be used as food and even some used as disinfectants. A short way into the walk, we came off the main trail and took a route through the thick bushes and into the heart of the jungle.
Butterflies wheeled all around, and we were surrounded by enormous ferns, colourful flowers and trailing vines, all under a towering canopy of deep green. The only sounds we could hear were cicadas and birdsong.
It was around this time where our noses began to tickle. There was a distinct smell of egg in the air and this time it wasn’t due to John’s breakfast. As we rounded the corner on our forest trail, we were suddenly confronted with what can only be described as a dead zone. A gash had been taken out of the forest, on either side there were lush green trees, but in the centre, a scar of yellow and red earth cut through the greenery. In the middle of the destroyed valley, flowed a sulphuric stream, hot and smelly, and surrounded by the remnants of dead trees. If we ever needed a reminder that we were standing on the edge of a volcano, this was it. We were getting close to the crater.
Its not everyday you can see a sulphur stream!
A very short walk later and we emerged into an utterly alien landscape. We had arrived at the Queen’s Crater, Kawah Ratu. Stretching away in all directions grey and yellow stone smoked with sulphuric gases. Bright blue pools, bubbled and spat steam, whilst the air was thick with the eggy smell of sulphur. There were barely any living plants here, only blackened stumps and the skeletons of trees.
It was in this strange landscape that we decided to have a bath!
The bright turquoise pools vary massively in temperature, you need a guide to tell you which ones will not boil you like a lobster! We stripped off into our swimming gear and, holding our noses, waded in for a paddle. The pools were heavenly. Even with the smell (which you quickly got used to), the warmth permeated every cell of our bodies and you could feel ourselves relaxing and unlocking. We could have spent a full day lounging in these pools letting all our muscles unwind. We don’t know the science and maybe it's just psychosomatic but there seems to be something really beneficial in naturally fed hot springs.
Reluctantly we got out as it was time for lunch. We sat on jagged rocks, in the middle of an active volcanic crater munching on fried chicken and vegetable curry. Behind us the volcano continued to belch and wheeze out its volcanic steam. It was a memorable place for a picnic!
After taking many photos of the alien landscape at Kawah Ratu, it was time to make our way back down the volcano side. Before returning to the car however, we had one more stop. Turning off our original jungle path, we passed through an entrance archway and made our way down to the Curug Geblug waterfall.
Heading down the steep valley, we could hear the waterfall before we could see it. As we rounded a corner and crossed over some mossy boulders, the waterfall came into view. The waterfall cut through the dark rocks and down into a perfect pool, surrounded by high cliffs and jungle foliage.
We’ve all seen the waterfall photos with queues of people wanting to take the same snap next to the “secluded” waterfall, but this was the real thing. There was just us, our tour guide and a local family foraging. We had the whole waterfall to ourselves. Many photos and a quick dip later (the waterfall was a lot colder than the hot springs) it was time to make our way back to the car. We drove back through the late afternoon, happy with our first experience of an Indonesian volcano!
Quick Facts - Mount Salak, Jakarta’s Volcano
Mount Salak, is the largest, closest volcano to Jakarta. Deep in its jungle heart is the delightfully named “Queens Crater”, Kawah Ratu (which you have just been reading about!)
Mount Salak is located around two hours south of the Jakarta or just one hour-ish from Bogor, you can see the exact location of the volcano on Google Maps here.
Mount Salak is an active “Stratovolcano”, this dramatic description means that it is effectively a volcano, built out of … volcano. Layers and layers of lava and rock from explosive eruptions create a steep sided volcano that rises dramatically from the landscape below. There is no singular cone to the volcano, it has several hotspots and ‘satellite cones’ dotted about its flanks
The last major eruption of the volcano was all the way back in 1938, although the area is still very much active with geothermal vents, boiling mudpits and seeping sulphur. Mount Salak itself rises over 2200 meters above sea level and is now a popular climbing and trekking location.
What To Know Before You Go?
Now we have waxed lyrical about the volcano and our trek, what practical information should you know before you clamber up its slopes? It is an easy trip and not a challenging hike but these tips will give you some confidence and help you enjoy your time to the maximum:
How Hard Is The Trek To Kawah Ratu?
The short answer is, not very. There is a constant small incline, and the paths are muddy jungle tracks, with the occasional rickety log bridge. The whole walk would take at most an hour and half, although you can do it much faster.
The way down to and up from the waterfall is the only steep incline but this is all done with steps and really doesn’t last very long.
The jungle trek and Kawah Ratu crater is suitable for pretty much any fitness level, unless you have any mobility issues.
It’s rocky, but there are paths to follow in the Queen’s Crater!
How Long Does The Trek Take?
The trek itself including stops at the crater, hot springs, lunch and the waterfall lasted around four and a half hours.
For the day as a whole, we were picked up at our hostel at 7am and began the trek at 9.30am. We were back at our hostel before 5pm.
If you are being picked up or dropped off from Jakarta, expect it to be a longer day. The pick up time will be around 5am.
Can I Do This Tour From Jakarta / How do I book a tour?
Absolutely, journeying from Jakarta seems to be the more popular option as travellers do not usually stay down in Bogor.
To book a yourself a trip of the Queens Crater / Kawah Ratu check out this tour on Get Your Guide
You can of course do the above tour by contacting Ridwan (message us for more details). He will definitely pick you up from Jakarta or from Bogor.
If you haven’t already, check out our article on Bogor on why you should stay in this awesome city.
How Much Does The Tour Cost?
The tours will vary depending on operator and group size. If you’re booking through Ridwan, for one person it will cost 1,450,000 IDR, for two people it’ll cost 850,00 IDR per person, for three to five people the cost drops to 750,000 IDR. If you’ve got lots of friends, or can jump on a larger group (six to ten people), the cost is only 650,000 IDR. This includes a pick up and drop off from your hostel in Bogor or Jakarta, private driver and car, all fees (parking, entrance to Kawah Ratu and the Curug Geblug waterfall, the National Park fees etc), guide and lunch.
If you don’t want to take a tour, you could book a driver through Grab, but bear in mind you will need to pay entrance fees to each of the locations as well as the National Park fee and parking. We would also recommend chatting with your Grab driver and arranging for them to wait for you as there won’t be any passing cabs up the volcano.
What To Take / What Should I Wear?
When we visited there were no shops or stalls open once we entered the National Park, so bring any snacks and drinks you may want on the trek. Our driver was more than happy to stop at an Alfamart / Indomaret on our way.
We’d recommend wearing trainers or walking shoes for the walk through the jungle. It’s very rocky, especially within the crater. You will also have to cross some small streams, so bring a spare pair of socks if your shoes aren’t waterproof. We visited in the dry season and there was still a fair bit of mud around so be aware of this if visiting after rain. The local city of Bogor is known as the Rain City for a reason.
We both wore our swimwear underneath our clothes as you can swim/paddle at both the crater and waterfall.
Make sure to spray yourself with lots of bug spray as you are trekking through a jungle, and as always baste yourself liberally in sunscreen.
In Kawah Ratu you do not need a face mask / gas mask like you do need on some active volcanoes. Despite the strong smell the sulphur quickly disperses and doesn’t sting your eyes. The volcano will be closed if there is too much activity so don’t worry!
Facilities On The Trek
There were toilets at the trailhead, these were just basic squatties so bring tissues and hand sanitiser.
There were a couple of lean to sheds to change at the waterfall if you’re too modest for the old hold-up-a-towel method for changing.
As we mentioned above, when we went there were no shops or stalls so bring any snacks/water you need etc.
Can I Stay At Kawah Ratu?
You cannot stay at the Kawah Ratu crater, but there are lots of guesthouses and campsites dotted around the National Park. Next time we visit, we’d definitely stay at one of these as there were many other waterfalls and treks in the area.
Take a look at the map below for local accommodation options (zoom out for more options):
Conclusion
We had a phenomenal day exploring the waterfalls, jungle and Queen’s Crater. The scenery was otherworldly, and the whole day out was a truly unique experience. We are so glad we spotted the leaflet on our guesthouse advertising this volcano tour!
In a rare move from us, we would actually recommend a guide as we were taken on jungle paths we certainly wouldn’t have chosen ourselves, guided to the correct temperature pools and given an insight into local life. We were lucky to visit mid week and the trails were deserted, with very few other people in the crater and the waterfall to ourselves.
If you’ve landed in Jakarta and or gone exploring in Bogor you may be looking for a little natural escape, and a trip to Mount Salak is just the tonic. The easy trek and natural beauty of the area are the perfect excuse to get back out into nature and stretch your legs. We cannot recommend this day out enough, if your in Jakarta or Bogor Kawah Ratu and Mount Salak is an essential add to your itinerary and unlike anything else you will have done to this point!
Thanks for reading,
John & Ellie x
#adventuresofjellie
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Just south of Jakarta, only an hour and a half away is the “Rain City” of Bogor. Often overlooked by travellers, read why your should take a trip there. From its famous Botanical Gardens to the towering volcanoes surrounding it. Bogor was an unexpected delight and should be added to in Java itinierary!